THIS CHAPTER IS UP TO DATE: 2012
Jack de Groot walked the Primitive Road in August / September 2009. Next Check up: March 2010 [COMPLETED]
LATEST CHECK UP: JUNE 2011
Updates on Refuges •
In Asturias:
OVIEDO: Reasonable refuge. New location, close to where the old refuge was: Calle Adolfo Posada, 3 (30 beds)
New: Albergue Villa Cecilia (new, in the southern part of Oviedo) Rated: cheap and good !
VENTAS DEL ESCAMPLERO: No hospitalero. Sometimes clean, sometimes not. Mosquitos in summer. Small cooking facility. Keys in hotel.
GRADO: No refuge. Try to avoid Hotel Bar Auto. A better option is Hotel Palper (at the entrance of GRado, before the bridge, left)
SAN JUAN DE VILLAPANADA: Now good. Good views. The refuge stands at some 600 meters from the camino,
so a 1200 meter detour is required. No food. No kitchen. No shops.
CORNELLANA: in the old Monastery across the river (in main street turn left). Good. Hotel La Fuente: very good.
GODAN: Good, but no hot water. No shops. Cooking facility. Road signs will lead you to Godán.
SALAS: New refuge, small, good. Bar Berlín: good. Hotel Soto: good.
BODANAYA: Good refuge. (Hostales and shops in La Espina.)
TINEO: Good. All services offered in Tineo.
CAMPIELLO: good refuge, also a Casa Rural, restaurants & bars. HERMINIA
BORRES: Avoid this one. Dirty. Flies.
POLA DE ALLANDE: Good. A very heavy pilgrim menu is served in La Allandesa.
PENASEITA: Good refuge. Bar nearby.
BERDUCEDO: Municipal is dirty. Private one is good! 8 Euros. Restaurant "La Culpa Fue de María" is very good. 9 Euros Menu.
There is a good Casa Rural: "Camin Antiguo" Ph. 696 929 164/165 next to the private refuge.
LA MESA: Try to avoid this one. No shops. No hotel. Lady serves food in case of emergency.
GRANDAS DE SALIME: Depressing refuge. Try to stay at Hostal Reigueira nearby, or in Hotel La Barra (good).
Casa Rural Sánchez (on the other side of the church, right on the camino) Ph. 626 665 118
CASTRO: Good refuge. Bar/shop. Spectacular ruins dating back 2000 years. Museum.
In Galicia:
A FONSAGRADA: No refuge. Sleep in Hostal Manolo. Eat at O'Candal (pulpo) or Demetrio (good hamburgers).
PADRON: Refuge is not great. Dirty rooms. No shops. (2 kms from FONSAGRADA). The climbs near Cádavo Baleira are very steep: up to 50% and very sandy!
If in doubt, walk the carretera from Paradavella onward. This is somewhat longer, but will save you time and sweat!
CADAVO BALEIRA: Good refuge. Shops etc. Good menu at Hotel Moneda (cheap rooms).
LUGO: Good refuge.
SAN ROMAN DA RETORTA: Good, small refuge. Casa rural. Shop/bar.
IMPORTANT NOTE REGARDING THE CAMINO PRIMITIVO !!!
The so-called "Northern Variant" which starts just past Borres, and runs to the ruins of some hospitals and later to the
top of "El Palo" is very spectacular. However, there are no services whatsoever, and may only be walked in good weather.
Fog will disorientate you. Wind will blow you away! If in any doubt, ask for advice in Bar Herminia in Campiello.
In Calle Emigrante 12, close to the Ronda Sur. Ph 606 506 061
